It looks like it actually IS attached at the far end, but it was detached at this end, so he cut it off, didn't ask me or suggest it, just did it. I was annoyed at that as when it was there there was the potential to reconnect it (which is what I was asking him to do) but he just cut it off, then was offering to come and service the tractor every year for meThat did have a cable but it wasn't attached to anything at the far end. When I asked him to fix that under the 6 months warranty the mechanic said that it wasn't doing anything, that something else was doing its job, and he cut the cable off completely.
Try moving the orange thingy one way and try the spool then the other way and try again.
View attachment 27856
There should be another link off the orange thingy going down
The thing with the cable tie is the response control, how fast you want the draft control to react when ploughing. I don't know whether forward is fast or slow but the round bar that it's cable tied to should come up into the cab (absent on a open platform). I also don't know why it should be cable tied into the forward position either. I think we'll have to wait for @Multi-power 's opinionThere doesn't seem to be another link. I suspect the thing around the dipstick for the back end oil should have a cover and not be open and with a cable tie. Difficult to get a good picture from under the tractor and at this angle, but I'll try.
There is a rigid bar going from the front of the casing but it's attached to the bodywork
The lever that is tied down is the 3 point linkage drop speed control.
My MF 168 is plumbed like this and works OKIt looks like it's fed directly from the back end of the tractorView attachment 27851View attachment 27852
These levers on the right hand quadrant control the 3 point linkage NOT the oil supply to your spool valves.Inside
View attachment 27853View attachment 27854
The square boxy one isn't attached to anything
The 'constant pumping' one is the one for lifting the arms
With the engine stopped move the spool lever back and fore to relieve any residual back pressure.I must be a complete wimp anyway because I simply cannot get these pipes into the spools fully. And now that I've taken them out I can't get them back in at all, even with me standing up on the frame of the bale spike and pushing with my full body weight and wiggling it a lot
I left it for about 90 minutes (while my phone charged!) then tried it again. Moved the levers forward and back several times first. Pressed the nipples on the pipes in to relieve any pressure.With the engine stopped move the spool lever back and fore to relieve any residual back pressure.
If this fails to work you will have to loosen one of the pipe fittings on the plug pipe relieve any back pressure.
That is a good idea.I'm going to ask my neighbour if I can try my ram on his spools, and if that works then ask him to plug it into my spools. If all that is ok then presumably the problem lies more in the tractor end, or I'm a wimp!
I could push the ball in with my thumb on all 4 outlets and a bit of oil came out of each one when I didThat is a good idea.
Try plugging in to the trailer tipping pipe, if that works ok , the problem is with the spool outlets.
The spool out lets 1&2 appear quite rusty or dirty 3&4 look cleaner.
A rusted ball will prevent you pushing the coupler in.
Give it all good clean before you try again.
@jaydee is referring to the multiple little balls around the inside of the coupler.I could push the ball in with my thumb on all 4 outlets and a bit of oil came out of each one when I did


But does it work?He disconnected and reconnected the pipes afterwards with no problem. Said they are Quicky ones (spelling?)
He swapped the pipes round for me too so that the shorter one was at the end nearest the axle and the longer one was nearest to the implement
View attachment 27868
Thank you all for all your help with this, you're all brilliant![]()
YesBut does it work?